Tag Archives: Upernavik

Northabout Heads for Home

The Polar Ocean Challenge team issued a press release last night. This is what it said:

The Polar Ocean Challenge successfully completed their quest to sail the North East Passage and North West Passage in one season. The North West Passage was completed in an astonishing 14 days due to the fact that it was almost totally ice free. They encountered ice only twice in their 1800 mile NW Passage part of the voyage. This highlights an extraordinary loss of sea ice in the Arctic in the 30 years that David Hempleman-Adams has been coming to the area. He said, ‘whilst we are all delighted to have succeeded, it is extremely worrying to see this lack of ice so starkly‘ The objective of the expedition was to raise awareness of the change in the fragile climate in the Arctic. They left Lancaster Sound at the end of the NW Passage at 19.18 UTC on 12th September and are headed for Greenland.

This seems likely to cause much gnashing of teeth in certain quarters, where it is claimed that:

The S/V NORTHABOUT has failed to cross the Pacific Ocean Arctic Circle in the Bering Strait as the official starting line to validate their Northwest Passage attempt. You cannot say you climbed Mount Everest by just reaching high camp – you must summit. You don’t ride a bicycle in the Tour de France without starting and finishing over the course in the designated places. Likewise, you must cross BOTH the Pacific Ocean Arctic Circle in the Bering Strait and the Atlantic Ocean Arctic Circle in Davis Strait to validate a Northwest Passage.

In Northabout’s defence I pointed out that:

Perhaps the Polar Ocean Challenge team have other priorities than gaining an entry on that particular list?

If you’re planning a single season circumnavigation a diversion via Provideniya or Nome doesn’t make a whole lot of sense, rules or no rules.

but nobody else seemed to take that view!

Today they also pointed out on their Twitter feed that they are a:

Pressing on the crew of Northabout are now approaching halfway across Baffin Bay:

northabout-20160913-1730

Her crew are trying to reach Upernavik in Greenland before the impending storm gets too bad. Here’s our own WaveWatch III based forecast for tomorrow afternoon:

significant_height_of_combined_w-in-multi_2-glo_30m-20160912_00063

and here’s the official Environment Canada forecast for East Baffin:

Issued 05:30 AM EDT 13 September 2016

Winds

Today Tonight and Wednesday Wind light increasing to south 15 knots early this evening and to south 20 late this evening. Wind backing to southeast 25 overnight then diminishing to light Wednesday afternoon.

Waves

Today Tonight and Wednesday Seas 1 metre building to 2 after midnight.

Thursday

Wind light increasing to northwest 15 knots in the afternoon then veering to north 20 late in the day.

Friday

Wind north 30 knots diminishing to north 20.

I seem to recall that 30 knot winds are best avoided! After Upernavik Northabout will head for Nuuk further south in Greenland and then across the North Atlantic back to Bristol, where she started her voyage back in June. It is certainly not beyond the bounds of possibility that there will be winds of 30 knots and more to contend with on that final leg of the Polar Ocean Challenge!

 

[Edit – September 14th]

Northabout has obviously not managed to escape the storm entirely. Ben Edwards reports today:

I hate this part of a journey. Yesterday as I came off watch we were scheduled to arrive about midnight tonight. I hate that anyway because you get the so close yet so far feeling. But typically as I came off watch the wind picked up, moved to an unhelpful angle and created the worst sea state we’ve had since the Chuckchi Sea. We’re still supposed to arrive about two in the morning but it will make the next twenty two hours really horrible. Not that our arrival time mattes too much, we can’t go in till it’s light anyway.

The Danish Meteorological Institute marine forecast for Qimusseriarsuaq (Melville Bay) states:

Gale from south and southeast, 13 to 18 m/s. From the western part decreasing and becoming south and southwest, 5 to 10 m/s, in northern part locally 13 m/s. Thursday gradually in eastern part south and southeast, 8 to 13 m/s, but in western part cyclonic variable, up to 10 m/s. Especially in northern part locally rain, sleet or snow with moderate to poor visibility, otherwise good visibility.

Significant wave height: 3,5 m. Swells: 3 m.

Many icebergs and growlers in the eastern part along the coast, otherwise few icebergs and growlers.

Upernavik is slightly south of there, but nonetheless Ben will have a few more uncomfortable hours, and Northabout may yet meet some more ice before her crew set foot on dry land once again:

polar-ocean-challenge-2016-09-14-18-16-01-1024x678

 

[Edit – September 15th]

Northabout has just arrived in Upernavik:

northabout-20160914-1320

 

[Edit – September 16th]

It looks as though Northabout has just left Upernavik, and is now en route to Nuuk:

northabout-20160916-1845

 

[Edit – September 18th]

Northabout is now moored at Ilulissat:

northabout-ilulissat-babies

northabout-20160918-ilulissat

That’s very near the mouth of Ilulissat Icefjord which leads to the famous Jakobshavn Glacier:

northabout-20160918-1400

Perhaps that’s where these icebergs came from?

ilulissatbergs
 

According to the latest Polar Ocean Challenge log:

As we expected, it was a long night last night as the big swell and Northernly winds continued to sweep us along from Upernavik, big surf waves behind us breaking under us, Northabout became a little Hawwai five o. We made our way along the coastline through amazing beautiful icebergs created by glaciers at Ilulissat.

The icebergs were between the size of telly to the size of a house to the size of a grand hotel. They were breaking up, and once or twice right in front of us creating lots a small bergs and ice chunks that don’t float so high above the water and so are difficult to spot especially with a large 10 foot swell, they disappear and reappear in the water around us.

 

[Edit – September 19th]

Northabout has just left Ilulissat, en route for Nuuk:

northabout-20160919-1830

 

[Edit – September 22nd]

Northabout has crossed the Arctic Circle and has just reached Nuuk, the capital of Greenland:

northabout-20160922-1100

En route from Ilulissat her crew have seen some amazing sights:

ilulissataurora

northaboutaurora

 

Previous Polar Ocean Challenge articles:

Non Fiction:

Northabout Braves the Northwest Passage

Northabout Races for the Date Line

Northabout Meets Some Serious Sea Ice

Northabout Bides Her Time

Northabout’s Great Adventure

Satire:

Could Northabout Sail to the North Pole?

Fiction:

Is the Polar Ocean Challenge About to End in Disaster?

Northabout Braves the Northwest Passage

After the briefest of stops in Elson Lagoon behind Point Barrow Northabout is on the move once again:

Northabout-20160829-2000

She’s currently heading out into the Beaufort Sea before following in the giant footsteps of the cruise liner Crystal Serenity in the direction of the Amundsen Gulf and the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. Here’s the United States National Weather Service’s current ice chart for Alaskan waters:

NWS-Alaska-20160828

There looks to be far less to worry about ice wise on the next leg of the Polar Ocean Challenge than on the previous one! The weather forecast isn’t too bad either, with high pressure over the Beaufort Sea and a fair bit of sunshine. Here’s the Weather Underground forecast for Ulukhaktok, Crystal Serenity’s first port of call in the CAA:

Wunderground-Ulukhaktok-20160829

There is currently a “small craft advisory” warning in effect for the Beaufort Sea coast:

CAPE HALKETT TO FLAXMAN ISLAND-
207 PM AKDT MON AUG 29 2016

…SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM TUESDAY MORNING THROUGH
TUESDAY AFTERNOON…

TONIGHT
E WINDS 20 KT. SEAS BUILDING TO 4 FT.

TUE
E WINDS 25 KT. SEAS 5 FT.

TUE NIGHT
E WINDS 20 KT. SEAS 6 FT.

WED
E WINDS 20 KT. SEAS 6 FT.

WED NIGHT
E WINDS 20 KT. SEAS 5 FT.

THU
NE WINDS 20 KT. SEAS 4 FT.

THU NIGHT
NE WINDS 15 KT. SEAS 4 FT.

FRI
N WINDS 10 KT. SEAS 2 FT.

SAT
N WINDS 15 KT. SEAS 3 FT.

All in all it looks like fairly plain sailing for the foreseeable future, with only occasional moderate headwinds to contend with.

 

[Edit – August 30th]

It seems my “fairly plain sailing” conclusion was overly hasty. According to the latest “Ship’s Log“:

The weather forecast is pants. A 30/35 knot headwind along the coast . No one has the appetite for it, so we are heading North, slacker winds, staysail out, still a choppy sea and uncomfortable, but not as bad as 30 knots. Hopefully no ice tonight on my watch.

This is the end result:

Northabout-20160830-2200

As Phil points out below:

Our next stop along the North West Passage is Tuktoyaktuk. That’s when we can use a pontoon, get rid of our rubbish, fill the tanks, do the laundry and have a shower. 500nm away.

 

[Edit – August 31st]

The Polar Ocean Challenge team report via Twitter:

 

[Edit – September 3rd]

Last night Northabout reached Tuktoyaktuk near the delta of the great Mackenzie River:

Northabout-20160903-1000

The Polar Ocean Challenge team have had some repairs to do after the stormy start to their trip from Barrow:

They have some more to carry out in Tuk too. Despite the great “groove” displayed above Ben Edwards reports that:

Joy of joys, the auto-helm’s stopped working. Dad (Steve Edwards, crew), thinks he knows why so we’ll hopefully be able to fix it in Tuk. In the meantime we’re back to helming by hand. This is a mixed blessing, on the one hand it’s really irritating to have to helm in large swells and with a strong headwind because any movement you make is at first ignored, and then exaggerated by, the wind. So it’s hard to keep a decent track and it makes it harder to look out for ice. On the other hand, moving and putting effort into the steering keeps you warm which is nice and it means you don’t have to put as many clothes on which is also nice because when you go down stairs and it’s twenty four degrees it can get quite uncomfortable.

 

[Edit – September 4th]

Northabout has just left Tuktoyaktuk:

Northabout-20160904-1445

Her crew have been refreshed and her auto-helm has been repaired with the assistance of numerous people from Tuk:

We all had our job lists, ice lights, bilge pumps, laundry, shopping but the man who gets the Vodka Salute is unquestionably Steve.

I dropped him off wth Willard. Two peas in a pod. They made a broken Pilot Spigot. That sounds quite easy but it took the whole day in a machine shop in a container, working to fine tolerances, and many modifications. Fitting it in the bowels of the Lazzerette in cold weather and driving rain. It worked first time. Brilliant effort.

Here’s the current weather forecast for the area:

Issued 07:00 AM MDT 04 September 2016
Today Tonight and Monday

Wind – Northwest 15 knots diminishing to light late this morning then becoming northwest 15 Monday morning.
Waves

Seas – 1 metre.

Weather & Visibility – Chance of showers changing to periods of rain near noon then to chance of showers tonight and Monday. Fog patches dissipating early this evening.

My famous last words? Plain sailing by the look of it!

 

[Edit – September 5th]

Northabout has just rounded Cape Bathurst, the northernmost point of mainland Northwest Territories:

Northabout-20160905-0930

I wonder if her crew will take a close look at the nearby Smoking Hills?

 

[Edit – September 6th]

Northabout gave the Smoking Hills a miss and headed strait for Cape Parry. She has already crossed the Amundsen Gulf and is heading into the Dolphin & Union Strait:

Northabout-20160906-1200

According to Ben Edwards’ latest blog post:

In light of the lack of ice and in the spirit of saving time we’ve decided not to stop in Cambridge Bay or Pond Inlet and go straight on to Upernavik in Greenland before doing our crew change. Looking at the ice maps at the moment it seems we’ll be able to get through with little or no trouble, though this is almost bound to change, if it stays that way we’ll reach Upernavik in about fourteen days. I’m looking forward to it!

 

[Edit – September 7th]

Northabout has reached Coronation Gulf this morning (UTC):

Northabout-20160907-0930

According to their recent reports the plan is to pass Pond Inlet without stopping. The weather up there is starting to look rather wintry:

PondInlet-20160907

 

[Edit – September 9th]

The Polar Ocean Challenge team report via Twitter that they have seen and chatted to David Scott Cowper:

as well as spotting some more ice:

 

[Edit – September 10th]

This morning Northabout is rapidly approaching the western entrance to Bellot Strait:

northabout-20160910-1300

Their stated intentions are to head past Pond Inlet and across Baffin Bay to Upernavik in Greenland. Assuming they initially follow the same route as Crystal Serenity they will soon to need to pick their way past some bergy bits in Prince Regent Inlet before negotiating some currently “wispy” areas of sea ice as they enter Lancaster Sound. Here is the current Canadian Ice Service chart for the area:

resolute-20160909-1800

plus a rather cloudy “visual” image:

lancaster-suomi-20160909

The current weather forecast for Pond Inlet doesn’t suggest the parts of the Northwest Passage still on Northabout’s route are going to start refreezing just yet:

pondinlet-20160910

Currently there is an obvious passage past the existing ice, but that may of course have changed by the time Northabout gets there.

 

[Edit – September 10th PM]

Northabout has just emerged safely from the eastern end of Bellot Strait:

northabout-20160910-1900

I wonder if her crew will stop to make a new entry in the visitors book at Fort Ross?

 

[Edit – September 11th]

Here’s the latest CIS ice chart:

resolute-20160910-1800

The gap between the coast and the yellow area of 4-6/10 concentration ice has closed considerably, and there’s now a broad expanse of 1-3/10 ice which Northabout may be forced to try and wend her way through. A change in wind direction would come in very handy, and that’s just what the ECMWF forecast at Windyty is suggesting for Sunday 11th:

ecmwf-20160911-1200

Just what the doctor ordered?

 

[Edit – September 11th PM]

Video shot from Northabout’s drone of her ice-free passage through Bellot Strait:

However the passage from Prince Regent Inlet into Lancaster Sound has not proved to be ice-free!

 

[Edit – September 11th 20:30 UTC]

Northabout is obviously endeavouring to skirt around the eastern edge of the 4-6/10 old ice in her path:

northabout-20160911-2130

Today’s CIS ice concentration chart suggests there isn’t much room to spare:

resolute-20160911-1800

The stage of development chart does reveal some new ice, but it’s well to the north of Northabout’s route through Lancaster Sound to Pond Inlet:

resolute-devel-20160911-1800

Somewhat belatedly, here’s a Sentinel 1A synthetic aperture radar image of the sea ice Northabout is squeezing past as we speak:

s1a_ew_grdm_1sdh_20160911t125111_c6c8

 

[Edit – September 12th]

Northabout has emerged safely into Lancaster Sound, and is bypassing Pond Inlet in order to head strait across Baffin Bay:

northabout-20160912-1800

Here are a couple of videos of some remnants of sea ice on her once again eastward travels:

There are several more on the Polar Ocean Challenge web site.

With all that ice now safely behind her Northabout has new dangers to face. Wind and waves! Let’s take a look at the WaveWatch III “surf forecast” for Baffin Bay over the next few days. A low pressure area is heading in Northabout’s direction from across the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. By Wednesday morning (UTC) the resultant wind field looks like this:

u-component_of_wind_surface-in-multi_2-glo_30m-20160912_00058

By Wednesday afternoon those winds of around 15 m/s will have produced waves in Baffin Bay that are forecast to have reached over 3 meters high:

significant_height_of_combined_w-in-multi_2-glo_30m-20160912_00063

and what’s more they won’t be just wind waves. A modest swell with a period of over 12 seconds is predicted too:

mean_period_of_swell_waves_order-in-multi_2-glo_30m-20160912_00063

I’m sure the Polar Ocean Challenge team will be doing their level best to be safely on the opposite side of Baffin Bay by the time the worst of the weather arrives!

 

Previous Polar Ocean Challenge articles:

Non Fiction:

Northabout Races for the Date Line

Northabout Meets Some Serious Sea Ice

Northabout Bides Her Time

Northabout’s Great Adventure

Satire:

Could Northabout Sail to the North Pole?

Fiction:

Is the Polar Ocean Challenge About to End in Disaster?